I hadn't tried this in many years but the last bottle was clearly not representative as it had a somewhat funky nose. There were no such issues with this latest bottle as the high-toned and super fresh nose of various red berries was entirely clean if perhaps not quite as complex as one might wish for after 20 years of cellaring indeed there is almost no secondary character in evidence and certainly no sous-bois. There is excellent intensity to the vibrant and overtly mineral-inflected middle weight flavors that culminate in a moderately austere and ever-so-slightly lean finish. I like the persistence but the balance isn't quite what it could be. This has just about reached its peak though I it should be capable of holding for many years to come; that said I suspect that it will always lack a bit of flesh.

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