93
score
Robert Parker
October 31, 2011
The 2010 Pignan Chateauneuf du Pape (100% Grenache from 30 year old
vines) is the lightest of the 2010s. The color is a medium translucent ruby
and the nose exhibits delicious notes of garrigue, lavender, sweet kirsch,
strawberries and loamy soil. I could have drunk this delicious effort directly
from the demi-muids in which it was aging. (Not yet released) One of the
world's most mysterious estates is Chateau Rayas. This small 30-acre estate
is owned by the Reynaud family, which dates back to the late 19th century,.
The estate has always had an image of secrecy and seclusion. Following the
death of Jacques Reynaud in 1997, his nephew, Emmanuel took over, and
he continues to produce wines that go from strength to strength. A cool
climate property in a hot zone, Rayas is tucked away in a forest with its
vineyards basically one parcel of sandy soil. Emmanuel Reynaud, who is
also the proprietor of the outstanding Vacqueyras estate called Domaine des
Tours, has the same eccentric idiosyncracies as his uncle. It is not as difficult
to get an appointment to visit Rayas as many people think, and I highly
recommend it as it is always a fascinating place to visit. After 25 years, I
never cease to be amazed by what emerges from these decrepit, old,
haphazard cellars that look like a biohazard room in a video game. They
don't win the top prize for the dirtiest cellars in Chateauneuf du Pape (that
goes to Henri Bonneau), but Rayas is a close second. Modern-day oenology
graduates would be horrified by -working conditions,- but the magic elixirs to
emerge from these ancient barrels, demi-muids and foudres are wondrous.
On this trip, I tasted through the component parts of the 2010s, another top
vintage for Rayas. Production was tiny, and the harvest was extremely late.
In fact, Emmanuel Reynaud told me that 2011 would be at least ten days in
advance of 2010. The 2009s, which have all been bottled, have turned out to
be spectacular, and I tend to think the 2009 Rayas could turn out to be the
greatest wine made by Emmanuel, even eclipsing the 2007
