The Domaine de la Romanée-Conti's 2007 Richebourg Grand Cru is still a few years away from the beginnings of maturity, and while it's quite dramatic immediately after opening, offering up aromas of peonies, orange rind, red plums, raspberries and exotic spices, it becomes a little more aromatically reserved after a few hours. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and sumptuous, it's ample and fine-boned, with filigree tannins, bright girdling acids and a long, saline finish.

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Tasting note: A much more restrained, even taciturn nose that is actually quite ripe, spicy, fresh and diaphanous features primarily floral infused red berry, mineral and Asian spice aromas that merge gracefully into supple, round and tautly muscled broad-shouldered flavors that are almost as pure as those of the RSV, all wrapped in a detailed, focused and almost painfully intense finish brimming with minerality and striking length. This is a karate champion of a wine that isn't especially big but the power and authority of the punch is hard to believe. I suspect that despite the fact that the '07 Riche will not be a long distance runner by the standards that are typical here, this will be a late bloomer in terms of permitting a true assessment of its character and potential, meaning at least a decade.

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