A very subtle hint of wood spice sets off dried rose petal, citrus and peach aromas that precede the rich, structured and intense flavors that are more backward than those of the Criots and seem decidedly primary by comparison and culminate in a driving and distinctly austere finish. I should note though that this is on the awkward side today and my score offers the benefit of the doubt for the admirable track record this wine has achieved over the years, particularly since 2000.