To celebrate the promising 2018 harvest, which was underway during my visit, Jean-Louis Chave opened a bottle of the 1988 Hermitage Blanc. Stunning for its truffle-like aromas and rich, marmalade flavors, it remains fresh and zesty enough to suggest it's in no danger of falling over. There's a texture of finely crushed stone and an incredibly long finish. From pristine provenance, this is why properly cellaring wine is so important to ultimately enjoying it to its greatest potential.

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