Like the domaine's 1996 vintage, Leflaive's 1999s were quite marked by reduction out of the gates, and the 1999 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru remains somewhat introverted. Offering up a smoky bouquet of waxy citrus rind, grilled bread, confit lemon and iodine, it's full-bodied, powerful and tight-knit, with considerable dry extract and concentration, but not much in the way of plenitude or expressiveness. If the Leflaive style is all about elegance, then the 1999 Chevalier is rather blocky and foursquare. Perhaps more will come with time, but for now, my sense is that the 1999—like the 1996—will never quite realize all its potential. That's a pity, as this is a superb white Burgundy vintage.

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Almost always my favorite wine chez Leflaive and so it is again in '99. The '99 Chevy is now beginning to open fully to reveal an impressively detailed nose of citrus and wet stones followed by vivid, palate staining flavors of limestone, pear and spicy oak. This has a curiously silky yet surprisingly powerful and muscular palate impression and a racy intensity that just oozes class topped off by a finish that goes on and on. Drop dead gorgeous and fans of this wine will not want to miss it. As to maturity, this has arrived at the stage where it could be drunk with pleasure or continue to be held though for my taste, it has arrived at the front end of its peak maturity. Tasted seven times with consistent notes.

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