The 2009 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatieres bursts onto the palate with an exciting array of mineral-infused fruits. It shows fabulous intensity in a weightless, beautifully articulated style. Hints of smoke and ash add additional layers of complexity. The long, clean finish makes it impossible to resist a second taste. This is one of the most backward, vibrant wines of the year. I loved it. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey is one of Burgundy’s most exciting young producers. Colin-Morey works with six hectares of vineyards, three of which are estate owned, while the rest are sources of purchased fruit. According to Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, the key to 2009 was picking early. The harvest started on the September 4. Colin-Morey did a long, slow press, with no batonnage once the wines were in barrel, all with the aim of preserving as much freshness as possible given the natural ripeness of the fruit. Roughly 80% of the wines were aged in 350-liter barrels, larger than the norm in Burgundy. Colin-Morey finished bottling the 2009s in April 2011. Colin-Morey told me he wasn’t enthused about the 2009s at first, but now thinks the wines have enough freshness to age well.

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