A much lighter style of wine, but showing far better now that it has had some time in bottle, is Emmanuel Reynaud’s 2008 Rayas Chateauneuf du Pape. Medium ruby, with a classic nose of kirsch liqueur intermixed with Provencal herbs, sandy, loamy soil notes, some licorice and steak tartare, this wine is fleshy, medium to full-bodied, round, generous, and surprisingly seductive and luscious. I wouldn’t be surprised if many tasters prefer this over the bigger, richer, more structured and potentially far greater 2007, at least for the next 4-5 years. This is a sensational effort and one of the finest wines of the vintage, the most challenging year in Chateauneuf du Pape since the historical deluge in 2002. The current releases of Fonsalette include the 2007 and 2008 Cotes du Rhone, as the 2009s will not be released until next year, and the 2010s the year after.

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