I am much less enthralled with the 1995 Brut Blanc de Blancs Clos du Mesnil, which comes across as excessively heavy and ponderous, with little of the delineation and nuance of the 1996. The aromas and flavors are surprisingly advanced for a wine of this age, and notes of roasted nuts and caramel suggest this won’t be an especially long-lived Clos du Mesnil. On the positive side, the mousse is exceptionally elegant. Still, I am not sure that this alone is enough at this level. No disgorgement date provided. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. My tasting this year with Olivier Krug was fascinating as I had the rare opportunity to taste all of the house’s 1996’s side by side, a comparison that yielded very interesting results.

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