The 1999 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru is a simply profound, unfurling in the glass with a deep and steely bouquet of lemon oil, pastry cream, mandarin, fresh peach, honeysuckle and wet stones. On the palate, it's full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with immense concentration and structure, tightly knit and focused in profile despite its considerable richness and texture, with racy acids and chewy extract that's beginning melt as it approaches its 19th birthday. While in their youth the d'Auvenay whites can be almost searingly structural, this wine exemplifies how suave and elegant they become with bottle age. Powerful but controlled, it represents the essence of Chevalier-Montrachet. Sadly, only 814 bottles were produced.

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This most recent bottle displayed a deep golden color as well as a noticeable amount of premox and as such is not rated. A bottled tasted in December 2007 was incredible however and that note is: A superbly elegant and pure nose that is clearly maturing as it now displays an appealing and superbly complex mix of spice, wet stone, ripe chardonnay fruit, floral notes and acacia blossom that can also be found on the powerful, focused and impressively concentrated medium-bodied flavors brimming with minerality and excellent vibrancy on the hugely long finish. This really stains the palate and while it's knocking on the door of full maturity, for my taste it could still use another 2 to 4 years in the cellar first. In short, a stunner of a wine. 95/2009+

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