An implosive concentration of dark cherry, blackberry, licorice, brown spices and black pepper marks the nose and palate of Fourrier's 2006 Griotte-Chambertin, which for all of its (in this vintage uncommon) density and sheer ripeness preserves buoyancy and clarity, letting a shower of spices, flowers, and crystalline, chalky mineral nuances burst forth in its finish. This is one of those wines that seems as though a complex chemical equation should exist to describe the catalytic, energy-releasing reaction among its parts. But there is more finesse and mystery hidden behind this wine detonative finish than tasters will ever get to the bottom of, with or without the assistance of mathematical models. I would wait at least a half dozen years to broach a cork -- for now, the Clos St.-Jacques is more enticing, yet it too needs time -- and would plan on this Griotte being a 15 or more year keeper and as such one of the longest-lasting monuments to a vintage whose potential for beauty is probably destined to remain forever under-rated. (DS)

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Good full red. Reticent aromas of black cherry and licorice. Dense and lusher than the CSJ but showing less inner-mouth perfume and lift today. In fact, this is quite clenched and hard to taste. Impressively thick for the vintage, and elegant in spite of its size. But this powerful Griottes will need at least a decade of bottle aging (especially so now that Fourrier seals his corks with wax). The tannins are broad and serious but not hard.

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A subtle touch of wood spice frames the ripe and moderately earthy yet upper register red, blue and black pinot fruit aromas that give way to rich, sweet and impressively concentrated medium-full flavors that really stain and coat the palate on the explosive finish. There is excellent phenolic ripeness here and absolutely no trace of hail-induced dryness (there was heavy hail in Griotte and Chapelle in 2006) on the powerful finish. If you can find it, buy it.

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